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Keeping Kalbeliya tradition beaded together

Twice a child bride, Sushila Nath – a single mother of three now – makes a living rearing cattle and working as a farm labourer. But her passion is preserving her tribe’s Kalbeliya jewellery and dance and making it commercially sustainable.

Ajmer, Rajasthan

I grew up in Ganahera village on the outskirts of Pushkar city. From the time I can remember, I was very fond of dancing. I would break into a dance whenever I heard a song. 

I always dreamt of becoming a famous dancer. I used to watch a couple of girls in our community and my mother and aunt dance.

I was probably in class I when I became a child bride. He was much older. So he married someone else. I was married again. A child marriage of course!

When I was 12, we lived on the sand dunes outside Jaisalmer city for a few months, where we performed for tourists. 

I used to dance with my mother and aunts from 7 to 10 pm, showcasing our traditional Kalbeliya – or snake charmer – dance. My father kept the rhythm, striking a bronze thali with a wooden stick as an accompaniment. A dholak was also played.

A must-wear part of our dance costume is the Kalbeliya jewellery, made of small beads. 

At a young age I was drawn to the Kalbeliya beadwork since I associated it with our dance. 

I’d sit with my mother and watch her make the bead accessories. She’d show me how to string the beads.

I must have been eight when my mother gave me an unfinished waistband. I created my own pattern. My mother was very happy with my work. 

Since we danced only for a few hours, we would make Kalbeliya jewellery and gudari (versatile cloth mattress) in the remaining time.

Some Gujarati tourists who saw us making the jewellery bought a few pieces from us. That was the first time we sold our bead jewellery commercially.

When I turned 18, I was sent to my husband’s house. The first few months of my married life were fine. Then my husband turned abusive. 

We were living in a hotel on the outskirts of Ajmer, where we were performing then. 

My husband wasn’t keen to work. But how could we live without working? Things became so intense that in 2008, I consumed poison. My husband was unconcerned even then. 

A hotel worker told my family, who rushed me to hospital, got me treated and took me home.

When my husband came after a few months and promised my parents to mend his ways, I returned with him. However, my troubles didn’t stop even after my daughter Ganga and son Jaggu were born. 

When I was pregnant with my third child Anshu, my husband left me at my parents’ house. He hasn’t returned since. 

That was five years ago.

Sushila Nath stringing beads with her daughter Ganga

I’ve travelled to many cities in different states for dance performances. But I no longer perform, just on special events in the family. 

My day usually begins at 5 am. I milk goats, go to the farm if there’s work and tend to the cattle. Then I make Kalbeliya jewellery and gudaris.

I want my children to study. I want them to make it good in their lives, so I let them focus on their studies. I believe if they get educated, they’ll be able to do what they want and live a life of dignity.

At the same time I want them to learn the art of making Kalbeliya jewellery. I would like my sons also to learn.

You know, I didn’t even complete class III. But at 30 years of age, I have another dream now. 

I’m learning English. I can read three letter words now. Once I learn the language, I can promote our Kalbeliya jewellery better.

Read about the tribal women’s hope to preserve the Kalbeliya beaded jewellery

Reporting by Shefali Martins, an independent journalist and author from Ajmer, Rajasthan. Courtesy Charkha Features.

The lead image shows Sushila Nath stringing beads. Photographs by Shefali Martins, Brett Cole & courtesy Sushila Nath