In the heart of the misty hills of Uttarakhand lies the enchanting town of Landour, which is home to one of India's favourite authors, Ruskin Bond, and a cheese shop that is deeply rooted in the history of its cobblestone streets and colonial-era cottages.
Anil Prakash, a descendant of a lineage deeply rooted in the history of Landour, recounts the tale of his grandfather’s journey to this quaint town over a century ago.
“The year was 1916 when my grandfather sought refuge in Landour from the outbreak of plague,” he began, his eyes reflecting the nostalgia of generations past.
Little did his grandfather know that this decision would shape the destiny of the Prakash family for years to come.
Nestled amidst the Himalayas near Mussoorie, right next to the Landour Bakehouse, A. Prakash & Co. in Sister’s Bazaar stands as a testament to resilience and adaptation. Prakash Stores, which began as a humble establishment selling groceries and disposable cutlery in 1918, has evolved into a sanctuary for cheese aficionados, thanks to the visionary endeavours of Anil’s father, Inder Prakash.
As the British residents bid adieu to Landour, Inder Prakash cannily recognised an opportunity to fill the void they left behind. With ingenuity and guidance from an American missionary, he delved into the art of cheese-making, crafting delectable varieties that would soon captivate the palates of locals and luminaries alike.
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Legends whisper that the flavours of Landour’s cheese even found favour with Jawaharlal Nehru, India’s first Prime Minister.
Each block of cheese tells a story, bearing the names of villages across the globe while carrying the essence of Landour within its folds.
“Every cheese is named after its village, across the world. I want to give Landour its own cheese,” Anil mused, his voice tinged with pride for his ancestral homeland.
A. Prakash & Co. produces around 45 kg of cheese each day between November and March every year, selling cheese worth Rs 15 lakh annually. The prices are competitive, and the cheese is made by hand.
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Their cheeses include varieties like bocconcini, mascarpone, edam, parmesan, grana padano and gouda, priced at competitive rates. A one-kg block of cheddar here would cost you around Rs 1,700.
As the seasons change and the hills embrace the balmy spring winds, A. Prakash & Co. comes alive with the rhythmic hum of tradition. From parmesan to cheddar, each variety is meticulously crafted by skilled hands, eschewing artificial processes for a taste that transcends time.
Today, as the fourth generation prepares to take the reins, the legacy of Landour’s cheese lives on. Twenty something Dhairya Prakash, with a twinkle in his eye and the weight of heritage on his shoulders, looks towards the future with hope and determination.
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“Landour cheese will always be our family’s pride,” he declared, a promise echoing through the corridors of time.
The lead image at the top shows the A. Prakash & Co. shop at Landour in Uttarakhand. (Photo by Teesta Rajan)
Teesta Rajan is a former journalist with over 10 years of experience in writing about food, travel and lifestyle.
