City of light celebrates Dev Deepawali

Dev Deepawali is a visual spectacle of millions of diyas or earthen lamps lighting the ghats of Banaras (Varanasi), celebrated on the first full moon night of Kartik Purnima. After two years of lockdown, the streets of Benaras were filled with devotees and tourists to celebrate the day that marks the victory of Lord Shiva over the demon trio Tripurasura.

Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh

One of the attractions of  Benaras is riding a ferry into the deep water of the Ganges and witnessing Anjoura-e-Benaras (which symbolises the morning magic one witnesses over the Ganges where no two mornings are similar in hues or experience) (Photo by Swati Singh Chauhan)

 Benaras is full of pilgrims and tourists to mark Kartik Purnima – as well as birds like Northern Pintail, Bar-headed geese and Golden pheasant, adding to the visual spectacle in the holy city (Photo by Swati Singh Chauhan)

 This city of temples is a spiritual home for Sadhus and Sadhvis, who renounced their worldly life. The smear of ash on their body is recognised as sacred as the water of the Ganges (Photo by Swati Singh Chauhan)

Professor Rana P.B. Singh narrates tales from the scriptures and talks about the sacred geometry of Benaras to some keen listeners, throwing light on the representation of the holy city as a yogic body and the longitudinal alignment of the ancient Siva temples from Kedarnath to Rameswaram (Photo by Swati Singh Chauhan)

Unless observing a fasting ritual, Benaras is a go-to street food hub in the buzzing central chowk of Thatheri Bazaar for delectable kachori sabzi and jalebi (Photo by Swati Singh Chauhan)

Subah-e-Benaras, or mornings in Benaras, are enjoyed with cream souffle made with only flavoured foam milk called malaiyo, a winter dessert served till 11 am – after which the foam turns to milk (Photo by Swati Singh Chauhan)

Temple pujari, or priests, are known to be the oldest settlers at the northern tip of Varanasi, which is at the confluence of the Ganga and Varun rivers. Teachings of Jiddu Krishnamurti, a renowned Indian philosopher and spiritual teacher, are taught in the temples of Benaras (Photo by Swati Singh Chauhan)

As night falls the ghats are illuminated with diyas as is the ancient tradition. Today hot air balloons and light shows add to the spectacle (Photo by Swati Singh Chauhan)

Benaras can also be called Kashi, meaning city of light or the luminous seat of learning. The scholar Diana L Eck said, “The city illuminates the truth and reveals reality. It does not bring new wonders into the scope of vision, but enables one to see what is already there.” (Photo by Swati Singh Chauhan)

Swati Singh Chauhan is a photographer and film maker based out of New Delhi.

The lead image at the top shows Benaras in night time (Photo by Swati Singh Chauhan)