Odisha’s vanishing tasar silkworm needs safety cocoon

Multi-pronged efforts have been launched to protect Similipal’s Modal ecorace silkworms, but more needs to be done to ensure that our future generations can continue to marvel at the delicate tasar silk produced by them.

Similipal, Odisha

Nestled within the undulating hills, dense forests, serene vales and babbling streams of Odisha’s tribal heartland lies a centuries-old treasure — the prized tasar silk. This exquisite golden-hued fabric is meticulously woven into saris renowned for their distinct texture and beauty, occupying a special place in the realm of traditional Indian textiles.

Tasar silk is derived from the cocoons made by the larvae of the Antheraea moth. Combined with the skilled artistry of craftsmen employing diverse techniques, it results in saris that incorporate intricate tribal motifs, geometric patterns and nature-inspired designs.  

Women sort the Modal silkworm cocoons as per quality (Photo arranged by Niroj Ranjan Misra)

The Antheraea moth has adapted to various ecological populations, known as ecoraces. Among these, the Modal variety of Antheraea mylitta found in the picturesque Similipal Biosphere Reserve (SBR) of Mayurbhanj district in Odisha stands out as one of the most coveted tasar silkworm breeds in the country.

Weavers and rearers alike favour Modal for its superior cocoon quality, allowing for the production of more tasar yarn compared to other variants.

According to Benudhar Patnaik from the Regional Sericulture Research Station (RSRS) in Baripada, a Modal’s cocoon yields almost 3,000 metres of silk yarn. In contrast, a Bogai, a type of silkworm that feeds on Arjun tree leaves, produces approximately 1,500 metres. Yarn, locally called suta, from 15 cocoons is joined together to make a thick thread, which is called ‘khia’ in Odia. These threads are then used to weave the tasar silk fabric.

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Tasar silk yarn woven from cocoons has a golden shade (Photo arranged by Niroj Ranjan Misra)

The Modal silkworms rely on local Sal trees for sustenance. The temperate climate and loamy soil of SBR create an ideal environment for the growth of tall Sal trees, offering healthy leaves for silkworms to feed on, said Dr Dipankar Chakravarty, former director of the Central Tasar Research and Training Institute (CTRI) at Ranchi in Jharkhand. 

Threats to the silkworm 

Despite its significance, overexploitation of the wild silkworms within Similipal has taken a toll on the Modal population, which has thrived in its natural habitat for centuries. In response, the Odisha government has embarked on a comprehensive endeavour to safeguard the insect within the SBR. The Modal Ecorace Conservation Project (MECP) was initiated in 2001 to counteract the alarming rise in poaching activities targeting the unique Modals in the SBR. 

Ramesh Das, the Secretary of Shri Vishnu Weavers Cooperative Society in Jajpur’s Gopalpur, said that his organisation has been getting no supply of the Modal cocoon for the past seven years. They now rely exclusively on cocoons from ecoraces like Jatadaba.

Women prepare tasar silk fibre from cocoons (Photo arranged by Niroj Ranjan Misra)

As per Dr Subrat Satpathy, a former scientist at RSRS, quantifying the number of Modal cocoons in the SBR and identifying how many are collected illicitly is challenging. According to an official who does not wish to be named, the  success rate  of the conservation efforts can be put at 35 percent.  He added that steps ought to be taken to increase the collection target of cocoons, besides maintaining strict vigilance to stop their pilferage.

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Silk route

However, reports of dwindling populations prompted the sericulture wing of the state government’s Handlooms, Textiles & Handicrafts Department to institute target-based Modal-cocoon collection for “grainage” (selecting and storing cocoons), involving eight base camps near the SBR. These camps operate during optimal growth periods — April to June, and September and November — collecting cocoons for conservation, said Dr Suryanarayan Patnaik, the Additional Director of sericulture. 

Tasar silk being produced from cocoons (Photo arranged by Niroj Ranjan Misra)

The metamorphosis from larvae to pupa of the Modal silkworm completes in a fortnight, and female and male moths emerge from the cocoons. Upon emergence, females are promptly segregated from males and released into SBR. 

“Female moths refrain from mating with males originating from the same batch of cocoons. Hence, they are permitted to interact with other males within SBR,” Sudhansubala Nayak, the Assistant Director of sericulture, explained. “Males that remain in the original location perish in two to three days.”

Earning from the yarn 

Both tribals (mainly Santhal, Munda and Bhyan communities) and non-tribals are engaged in the collection work. However, they pursue it as an additional source of income, their main occupation being paddy cultivation and collection of minor forest produce like honey, wax, lac and tuber. 

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Tasar silk saris from Odisha showcase intricate tribal motifs, geometric patterns and nature-inspired designs (Photo arranged by Niroj Ranjan Misra)

“My annual income from cultivating paddy on about one acre of land and collection of minor forest produce is around Rs 25,000. I get around Rs 2,500 by collecting and selling cocoons to the government during each collection season,” said Tanaya Munda, a resident of Gudgudia village that lies adjoining SBR. “About 20 people from our village are engaged in the collection work for the government during each season,” he added. 

Between April and June, each camp collects 5,000 cocoons, and between September and November, they gather 25,000, according to Sashikanta Panigrahi, who is responsible for four base camps. These are purchased in kahanas from locals at Rs 13 per cocoon, a rate fixed by Odisha Cooperative Tassar & Silk Federation Ltd. (SERIFED), the apex body of over 160 cooperative societies in Odisha. A lot of 1,600 cocoons is called a kahana.

A single kahana of Similipal’s Modal cocoons produces up to 3.5kg of yarn, while their counterparts in places like Keonjhar yield around 2.5kg, said Sushanta Mahanta, the community mobiliser of Bhagamunda Tasar Rearers Cooperative Society. 

The golden tasar silk fabric can be dyed in various colours (Photo arranged by Niroj Ranjan Misra)

The challenge of safeguarding Modal silkworms persists, as clandestine collection continues despite government efforts, even extending to cocoons from which moths have already emerged. The cocoons with holes drilled by emerging moths, known as pukhri, are manipulated to produce coarse yarns. Sudhansu Narayan Nayak, the Secretary of Bhagamunda Tassar Rearers Cooperative Society (BTRCS), explained that tasar manufacturers even use coarse yarn due to its comparable production capacity.

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While the government sets an annual collection target of 200,000 Modal cocoons, their trade in the black market remains a concern. Rajib Dass, the proprietor of Apekhya Handlooms, said: “A kahana of Modal cocoons fetches around Rs 6,000 at SERIFED rates, but sells for Rs 9,000 in the black market.”

The lead image at the top shows the Modal ecorace silkworm and cocoons. (Photo arranged by Niroj Ranjan Misra)

Niroj Ranjan Misra is a freelance writer based in Cuttack, Odisha.