Trekking through Kashmir’s great lakes

On Day 1 of the trekking through Kashmir’s great lakes, you embark from Sonamarg to the Table Top peak, journeying through dense maple forests, rocky landscapes and picturesque meadows. After a 4-5 hour walk you are rewarded with stunning vistas and the delightful companionship of the Gujjar-Bakarwal community, enhancing the overall experience.

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A stop at a quaint dhaba (roadside food kiosk) for a taste of traditional Kashmiri tea known as nun chai, adds a refreshing touch to the adventure of trekking through Kashmir’s great lakes. With an abundance of firewood, the Table Top peak provides a welcoming and warm atmosphere, making it an ideal resting place to prepare for the days ahead.

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Day 2 brings an 18 km-trek that begins at Table Top and ends at Vishansar through Nichnai Pass, leading to the beautiful twin lakes of Krishansar and Vishansar, nestled at 3,710 metres above sea level. Krishansar means ‘the lake of Krishna’ in the Kashmiri language, while Vishansar, derived from ‘Vishnusar’, holds cultural significance for Kashmiri Pandits, signifying ‘the lake of Vishnu’.

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Crossing the challenging Nichnai Pass brings stunning views, and surprisingly, you get mobile network reception here, a rare link to the outside world in the wilderness.

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The Nichnai Pass treats you to colourful wildflowers, with shades of blue, red, yellow and white lining the trail. You’ll cross several glacial streams on the way down. At Vishansar Lake, hikers gather for activities like fishing in the serene surroundings.

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On Day 3, you trek from Vishnusar to Gadsar via Gadsar Pass. The 16 km-journey unfolds new natural wonders. The mysterious Gadsar Pass stands like a sentinel, guarding the Himalayan secrets. The steep ascent to Gadsar Pass, situated at a height of 4,150m, rewards hikers with a breathtaking panoramic view of both lakes.

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The descent unveils vibrant wildflowers, streaming waters and vast meadows that provide ample grazing opportunities and invite horses and sheep to roam freely. As the day comes to a close, the shelter of the Bakarwal community becomes a welcoming sight, and you may be greeted with goat milk. After crossing Gadsar Lake, you set up a camp in the vicinity of the Indian Army’s Gadsar Post.

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Day 4 unfolds a 20 km-trek from Gadsar to Gangabal via Zaj Pass. It’s a physically and mentally demanding day. You’ll traverse rocky terrain, pass the interconnected ‘Satsar lakes’, and descend to the forest edge for a stunning view. Zaj Pass, the final of the three on the trek, lies at about 3,990 feet and offers a panoramic view of the Nandkul and Gangabal lakes, framed by the majestic Harmokh Mountain.

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On the last day, you will cover the 13 km distance from Gangabal to Naranag, before driving back to Srinagar. The path takes you beyond the trees, across grassy fields, and into a pine forest for about 6-7 km before you descend towards the picturesque Naranag village.

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As a hint of nostalgia for the routine creeps in, prepare for an equally thrilling adventure on the final day. Be ready for a challenging descent, involving a 4,000-feet drop that can put your knees and toes to the test.

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