Maharashtra’s fiery Bhiwapuri chilli faces extinction
Bhiwapuri chilli, known for its bright red colour, intense heat and cultural significance, is teetering on brink as farmers face low yields and turn towards growing hybrid varieties.
For spice connoisseurs, the Varhadi Laal Mirchicha Thecha is a treasure. It delivers a pungent heat, diffusing a single word to nail the commotion on the palate: “Dosed”, like the 2002 hit song by the Red Hot Chilli Peppers.
If enthusiasts for fiery foods haven’t savoured this piquant red chutney exclusively made with Bhiwapuri chilli, they are missing out on something invaluable. There’s also a wee bit chance they may miss it altogether because this chilli variety native to Maharashtra’s Vidarbha region teeters on the edge of extinction, despite its reputation. Its remarkably low yield has led to a situation wherein only a handful of farmers, drawn by tradition and heritage, cultivate this unique chilli now.
For generations, this bright red chilli, named after the region’s presiding deity, goddess Bhima, has been cultivated in Bhiwapur, Kuhi and Umred talukas of Nagpur district. Its distinct colour is attributed to the agro-climatic conditions, especially the soil’s water retention capability, enriched with micronutrients like iron, manganese and copper. The ideal conditions — hot and dry summers, transitioning to humid weather during the rainy season, coupled with ample sunshine — favour the growth and yield of Bhiwapuri chilli.
Setting itself apart from indigenous varieties like Byadagi and Guntur chillies, Bhiwapuri boasts high capsaicin content, a component that gives chilli peppers their heat. Its intense red colour not only imparts a bold taste to culinary creations but also finds application in the cosmetic industry for products like lipstick, nail polish and creams due to its higher oleoresin percentage compared to other chillies.
“During the harvest, we receive requests from loyal patrons who vouch for its distinctiveness,” said Nandkishore Panchbhai, a 42-year-old fourth-generation farmer from Bhiwapuri village in Maharashtra. He tends to this legacy on a modest acre, juxtaposed against seven acres dedicated to high-yield hybrid chillies. “For us, it’s a tradition to grow it. Our forefathers grew it, and so do we,” he said.
Red hot chilli peppers
Situated along the Nagpur-Gadchiroli route, 65 villages in Bhiwapur, Kuhi and Mandal talukas collectively nurture this native variety on small plots while growing hybrid varieties on a larger scale.
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Krishi Bhushan awardee Narayan Lambat, president of Bhiwapuri Chilli Growers Association, reminisced about the era when Bhiwapuri covered around 1,500 hectares until the 1980s. The shift towards high-yielding hybrids has led to a decline, despite the premium price commanded by Bhiwapuri for its quality, taste and medicinal properties.
“With the advent of irrigation options, farmers shifted to hybrids for better returns,” the 72-year-old Lambat explained.
The geographical indication (GI) tag secured in 2017 by the association marked a milestone in recognising the uniqueness of this variety. At present, it graces around 125 acres in Bhiwapur and 30 acres in Kuhi. Direct buyers from Delhi, Andhra Pradesh, Telangana and Maharashtra frequent Bhiwapur, seeking the produce.
Its productivity stands at 20 quintals an acre (wet) and five quintals for dried pepper, with a production cost of around Rs 45,000 an acre. Freshly harvested green chillies fetch Rs 2,000 to Rs 2,200 a quintal, while red ones garner Rs 2,500 to Rs 3,000 a quintal. Bhiwapuri chillies boast a longer shelf life compared to hybrids, retaining their colour for over six months.
“If the chilli is ground with the stem intact, the powder has a slightly whitish colour. However, if we follow the process known as dandikat, wherein the stalk is removed, we get a rich red colour. This method has generated jobs for approximately 5,000 workers,” Lambat said.
Less water, more kick
Bhiwapuri’s resilience to weather variations adds to its allure. However, low productivity poses a significant challenge, with the hybrid varieties yielding up to four times more.
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Jaydev Kakde, a 35-year-old resident of Pandhwani village, grows Bhiwapuri on two acres compared to his father, who is now in his early seventies and used to cultivate this variety on 10 acres until the 1980s. Kakde noted the minimal resource intensity in its cultivation, relying on farmyard manure and limited insecticide sprays during the entire three-month period of the crop.
“The hybrids are heavily dependent on several doses of pesticide sprays and chemical fertilisers,” he said.
Plant biotechnologist Venu Babu Pentyala attributed the declining yield of Bhiwapuri chilli to cross-pollination with the hybrids, causing a genetic dilution of its unique traits. According to him, genetic improvements can enhance its yield potential, drawing parallels with the successful enhancement of Byadagi chilli by a Mysuru-based university.
The Agricultural Technology Management Agency (ATMA), with CSR funds from Western Coalfields Limited, aims to develop a high-yielding, pure variety of Bhiwapuri chilli in collaboration with Dr Punjabrao Deshmukh Krishi Vidyapeeth to conserve this indigenous variety.
The district authorities, recognising the demand and combating counterfeit Bhiwapuri chilli in the market, also aim to boost its production.
“We’ve trained 75 women farmers, providing them seeds and manure to grow this chilli on plots spanning 10 to 20 gunthas,” said Dr Archana Kadu, project director of ATMA in Nagpur district. One guntha equals about 1,000 square feet.
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A recent bulk sale of 300 kg of Bhiwapuri chilli to the Maharashtra Marketing Federation has rejuvenated the spirits of growers, affirming their commitment to preserve this traditional chilli variety.
“We will not let Bhiwapuri die away and have plans to make value-added products, which will ensure better returns for us,” asserted Lambat.
The lead image at the top shows the bright red Bhiwapuri chilli cultivated in Bhiwapur, Kuhi and Umred talukas of Nagpur district. (Photo by Hiren Kumar Bose)
Hiren Kumar Bose is a journalist based in Thane, Maharashtra. He doubles as a weekend farmer.
